El Hombre Pajaro

With four of my co workers, from the foundation Cholchol, we travelled to Puerto Saavedra to meet the notorious “ Hombre Pajaro”, also known as Don Lorenzo Aillapan. We arrived at his house at around 12 and he had only just arrived before us from another commitment. This man never stops, he is forever being invited here there and everywhere. Like a bird he travels the world, spreading his knowledge and stories. He has been to France, Sweden, China and in the next two weeks he will be setting off for Canada, by invitation from a university there. You would think someone of his status would not have the time or patience to receive us volunteers in his house, but on arrival we all sat down at his table to share a mate, bread and stories. He speaks with such passion and expression that the conversation was even entertaining for Daisuke, our Japanese volunteer who has only newly arrived and has limited Spanish. His bird songs are enchanting and are exactly like the bird he is interpreting. He said that he sees his spirit in the birds and for this reason if he sees a bird in a cage it makes him very sad. We were also lucky enough to visit the Machi Berta, Don Lorenzo's friend, who lives in the surrounding countryside of Puerto Saaverdra. She speaks little Spanish so Don Lorenzo had to translate our many questions.  

Visit to Maria Ester's workshop

I went to talk with Maria Ester Llancaleo in her workshop in Puerto Saavedra. I've already been there before to visit other artesians but it is a nice seaside town, I do miss the sea! I went originally to ask her about her work relating to basket making although I realised on my arrival that this woman does everything. weaving, jewellery, baskets, bags, all that is artesania mapuche. The most interesting point she made was her opinion on the future of mapuche crafts. She feels with out a doubt they will most certainly continue to be made and people with continue to learn although the meanings and significances of the pieces will not continue. People's motifs for learning and practising the craft will be purely for money and their work will not uphold the diverse meanings, put on all the different products. Each piece has a story but these, according to Maria, will not be past on the the next generation.

Beautiful Mapuche Textiles

Some of the rugs sold at the foundation. All of the colours used are 100% natural; using vegetable peel, berries and leaves to dye the wool. And of course they are all hand made. Simple beautiful!  http://es.cholchol.org/

Friendship jug: two spouts so it can be shared.

Pottery visit

Yesterday I visit Sandra San Martin and her father at their house in Gorbea, which is situated around an hour from Temuco. I took the bus from the centre and sat for a long hour on the bus as there was an awful smell! I look for the toilet, but there wasn't one, so I have no idea where the smell was coming from! When I arrived I followed Sandra's simple instructions and arrived with no fuss. I first was given a quick tour of their beautiful green and winter white ( as Sandra put it) house. They have make it into a literal museum, each room full of posters and trinkets, visually telling both the mapuche and their personal history. First Sandra  gave me a brief account of some of her pottery. They are all archaeological copies of mapuches jugs that can be found in museums all over South America. Many represent fertility and each small detail that they hold, hint towards this understanding. I later spoke to Sergio, Sandra's dad, who has a "more romantic" way of explaining the pieces. We spoke for more than 2 hours as Sergio explained everything from the start, reminiscing about his wife and when they would visit museums looking for new designs. He highlighted how they do not make a lot of money but that one was born to live, not to work and as long as they had food that was all that mattered. He was such a captivating character, he was very patient with my questions and spoke with such passion.